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E rated tires for it's weight?

FlyingTexan

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I'm looking at the Mickey Thompson Baha Boss tires 285/70/17 size. They have two versions, the STD which is 48lbs and the E rated that's 63lbs. Are the KO2s that come on it E rated? What weight are people going for?
 

James

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I'm looking at the Mickey Thompson Baha Boss tires 285/70/17 size. They have two versions, the STD which is 48lbs and the E rated that's 63lbs. Are the KO2s that come on it E rated? What weight are people going for?
Yes, both the bfg and bridgestone tyres are e rated.
 

anand

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More than letter load rating, concentrate on the weight carrying capacity of the tire.

C vs D vs E load ranges will also alter tire tread depth, and sidewall thickness (the ply count is not actually exact any more with tires, but moreso a guide)
 

FlyingTexan

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More than letter load rating, concentrate on the weight carrying capacity of the tire.

C vs D vs E load ranges will also alter tire tread depth, and sidewall thickness (the ply count is not actually exact any more with tires, but moreso a guide)
Right but without a backend the load rating really isn’t that much of a concern
 
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Yes, both the bfg and bridgestone tyres are e rated.
Hi James,
The prototypes were on D-rated tires. Is it confirmed that the production cars are on E-rated tires? I'm guessing at this stage that is confirmed, I just wanted to ask. Thanks!
 
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More than letter load rating, concentrate on the weight carrying capacity of the tire.

C vs D vs E load ranges will also alter tire tread depth, and sidewall thickness (the ply count is not actually exact any more with tires, but moreso a guide)
Yes - and most of those things you mention get better when you move from C, to D, to E-load rating. This is my favorite site for looking at tire specs. They cover most major brands, but I'm listing below the page on the KO2.

 

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There will also be an acceleration and mileage penalty when stepping up in tire rating. You'll feel the difference at the stop light. Even with a large diesel engine we lost 1+ mpg going with a heavier uprated tire in the same size and a near identical tread pattern to what we were running previously (Firestone to Bridgestone). That 13lb difference in the two Mickey Tees probably exacts a penalty in component wear too.
 
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There will also be an acceleration and mileage penalty when stepping up in tire rating. You'll feel the difference at the stop light. Even with a large diesel engine we lost 1+ mpg going with a heavier uprated tire in the same size and a near identical tread pattern to what we were running previously (Firestone to Bridgestone). That 13lb difference in the two Mickey Tees probably exacts a penalty in component wear too.
Absolutely right. When I tire shop, I look for the best possible tire - for my needs. I have a lifted Tacoma on 33s, I drive on rocky trails, but not often in mud. The Tacoma is not a heavy vehicle nor does it have a high payload. But I want an E-rated tire - not because of its load rating, but because it has better tread depth and a thicker (stronger) sidewall - which I value on rocky trails and on-road when the vehicle is loaded. I also want an AT tire that is 3-Peak Mountain Snow Rated, because we often get snow and freezing conditions before I mount my winter tires, and after I take them off in the Spring. After deciding on these priorities, I'll look for as light a tire as possible, to minimize the weight penalty (slower acceleration, worse mileage, and longer stopping distance) of the E-rated tire. I choose the KO2s for my summer tires, because - when I look at all the variables - this one is best for my needs.

When I shop for the wife's car, a stock 4-Runner, I go for the same tire (in a smaller size) - because she drives trails on her own to go hiking, we live on long dirt roads, and the tire is 3-Peak Mountain Snow Rated. She loves the KO2s, and after we pulled off the stock tires she declared those to be "absolute sh--". But for her car, I buy C-rated tires, because she is not driving hard trails where the thicker sidewall is important, and she hates the weight penalty of a heavy tire. We tried E-rated first, and she really noticed the slower acceleration.

Bottom line: there are a lot of good tires in the market. The best tire for one person will likely be different than the best tire for another person. Every "good" feature of a tire comes with a penalty, and one has to perform a cost/benefit analysis on that feature, and that is highly individualized.
 

FlyingTexan

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Absolutely right. When I tire shop, I look for the best possible tire - for my needs. I have a lifted Tacoma on 33s, I drive on rocky trails, but not often in mud. The Tacoma is not a heavy vehicle nor does it have a high payload. But I want an E-rated tire - not because of its load rating, but because it has better tread depth and a thicker (stronger) sidewall - which I value on rocky trails and on-road when the vehicle is loaded. I also want an AT tire that is 3-Peak Mountain Snow Rated, because we often get snow and freezing conditions before I mount my winter tires, and after I take them off in the Spring. After deciding on these priorities, I'll look for as light a tire as possible, to minimize the weight penalty (slower acceleration, worse mileage, and longer stopping distance) of the E-rated tire. I choose the KO2s for my summer tires, because - when I look at all the variables - this one is best for my needs.

When I shop for the wife's car, a stock 4-Runner, I go for the same tire (in a smaller size) - because she drives trails on her own to go hiking, we live on long dirt roads, and the tire is 3-Peak Mountain Snow Rated. She loves the KO2s, and after we pulled off the stock tires she declared those to be "absolute sh--". But for her car, I buy C-rated tires, because she is not driving hard trails where the thicker sidewall is important, and she hates the weight penalty of a heavy tire. We tried E-rated first, and she really noticed the slower acceleration.

Bottom line: there are a lot of good tires in the market. The best tire for one person will likely be different than the best tire for another person. Every "good" feature of a tire comes with a penalty, and one has to perform a cost/benefit analysis on that feature, and that is highly individualized.
Thanks that’s where I’m at. I always like to go the largest I can on stock suspension. The new KO3s are on tirerack.com at 285/70/17. I don’t know what all they’ve done with them but honestly my KO2s on my Disco 5 have been great. I think people have wet traction issues because they over inflate and their tread design doesn’t favor it. I’ve had zero wet traction issues. My only issue is having a decision to make lol. I’m also considering the new Nokian AT tires. I’m in Texas so it’s not a snow thing but Nokian always gets high praise.
 
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Thanks that’s where I’m at. I always like to go the largest I can on stock suspension. The new KO3s are on tirerack.com at 285/70/17. I don’t know what all they’ve done with them but honestly my KO2s on my Disco 5 have been great. I think people have wet traction issues because they over inflate and their tread design doesn’t favor it. I’ve had zero wet traction issues. My only issue is having a decision to make lol. I’m also considering the new Nokian AT tires. I’m in Texas so it’s not a snow thing but Nokian always gets high praise.
I haven't had wet traction issues with KO2 either - though I've heard the complaints. But I also don't run my tires down to low tread. I pull 'em off and sell them to folk around here who are happy to buy a used tire for a decent price, and then I go get some new ones. I'm happy to pay the money to keep tires with good tread on our vehicles.

I've been really impressed with Nokian winter tires. I bet they make a good AT tire as well!
 

Norb-TX

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KO2's come in different road ratings. They make special ones for the Raptor, which is lighter, that's the one I always choose.
 
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