CTEK Smartpass120 vs Smartpass120S

[etbandit]

Newbie when it comes to things electrical.

What's the difference between the CTEK Smartpass120 vs Smartpass120S, and which unit comes with the Grenadier?

Thanks in advance.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Smartpass 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries). Smartpass120 is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium.

The 120S is the charger installed in the IG if you choose the aux power option. You need to buy and install any CTEK 250SE.

CTEK 250SE is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) of the other charger, the non-Lithium version being the 250SA. Yep only the last letter changes A or E.

The CTEK 250SE also gives you a solar input.

The IG aux battery is not lithium, but if you get the 120S and the 250SE you can install a Lithium battery later and not have to buy new chargers (you do need to make some minor wiring changes).

So the best combo, in terms of features and battery chemistry, is the 120S with the 250SE (although the image below shows the 120).

 

[bemax]

Smartpass 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries). Smartpass120 is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium.

The 120S is the charger installed in the IG if you choose the aux power option.

CTEK 250SE is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) of the other charger, the non-Lithium version being the 250SA. Yep only the last letter changes A or E.

The CTEK 250SE also gives you a solar input.

The IG aux battery is not lithium, but if you get the 120S and the 250SE you can install a Lithium battery later and not have to buy new chargers (you do need to make some minor wiring changes).

So the best combo, in terms of features and battery chemistry, is the 120S with the 250SE (although the image below shows the 120).View attachment 7810148

Thanks a lot for the explanation!

 

[bemax]

I am still thinking whether it will be possible to use one of the roof outlets as an inlet for solar power. Anyone smarter than me has an idea whether that could work?

 

[MrMike]

I am still thinking whether it will be possible to use one of the roof outlets as an inlet for solar power. Anyone smarter than me has an idea whether that could work?

It can be done, no problem. Just need to change the connectors on the roof and trace the cable back to the fuse box and disconnect it from the overhead panel. I'm going for a Redarc BCDC50 and my current lithium battery, unsure if I'll use the solar input as with the type of travel we do having a solar panel on the roof it's not needed (in most cases for overlanding it isn't needed as you are driving every day)

 

[Logsplitter]

I am still thinking whether it will be possible to use one of the roof outlets as an inlet for solar power. Anyone smarter than me has an idea whether that could work?

We used to have fixed solar panels but are now going for the portable suitcase style solar panels that have their own inbuilt mppt controller. Our sort of traveling and the fact you can position them to be more efficient means they work for us. Already have one of these in the attached link and will be getting another to supplement. We find 200watts is plenty for out needs and moving every two or three days.

Photonic Universe 100W Lightweight Folding Solar Charging Kit With MPPT Controller

100W lightweight portable, folding solar panel kit for 12V systems with high-quality solar cells & MPPT controller. For leisure applications.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[Tazzieman]

For simplicity I'm keeping my Kickass battery box with built in controller. When the AGM battery eventually dies I'll pop the latest Lithium one in. The battery box is portable, which is a useful feature (for me).

 

[TheDocAUS]

I am still thinking whether it will be possible to use one of the roof outlets as an inlet for solar power. Anyone smarter than me has an idea whether that could work?

Sounds like an idea.

Just check whether the solar panel is compatible with the voltage and amps of the plugs and the fused circuit.

Remember one plug is 25amps (driver’s side front on RHD vehicle). The other 3 plugs share 25 amps between them. You would need to do some rewiring (including wiring the circuit into the solar input on the CTEK 250SE), but that is easier than running new wires.

I would use the single 25amp circuit as I will not have a Lightbar on the roof rack. I could then use the other 3 plugs to run camping lights.

 

[Logsplitter]

Sounds like an idea.

Just check whether the solar panel is compatible with the voltage and amps of the plugs and the fused circuit.

Remember one plug is 25amps (driver’s side front on RHD vehicle). The other 3 plugs share 25 amps between them. You would need to do some rewiring, but that is easier than running new wires.

If I was going for fixed panels this is exactly what I would do.

 

[TheDocAUS]

This 200w panel would probably do the job at 20 volts and 11 amps. I had the 80w version for a few years. It worked really well.

 

[TheDocAUS]

For simplicity I'm keeping my Kickass battery box with built in controller. When the AGM battery eventually dies I'll pop the latest Lithium one in. The battery box is portable, which is a useful feature (for me).

Just FYI the INEOS Australia rep was strongly against Lithium batteries in the IG. He did all the ADR work for INEOS and said they did not test Lithium.

Personally I would only use a high end Lithium battery like the Invicta, not one of the cheap brands. Plus, I would only use LiFePO4, not any Lithium chemistry. For me A grade LiFePO4 cells with a great Battery Management System.

 

[Tazzieman]

Just FYI the INEOS Australia rep was strongly against Lithium batteries in the IG. He did all the ADR work for INEOS and said they did not test Lithium.

Personally I would only use a high end Lithium battery like the Invicta, not one of the cheap brands.

I realise that. My Kickass box is wired in (most vehicles) or standalone (charged at home/solar).
In Tassy it won't get much use, but we'll see how it works for future longer trips elsewhere.

 

[etbandit]

Smartpass 120S is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries). Smartpass120 is the non-lithium version. Add S for Lithium.

The 120S is the charger installed in the IG if you choose the aux power option. You need to buy and install any CTEK 250SE.

CTEK 250SE is the Lithium version (plus other chemistries) of the other charger, the non-Lithium version being the 250SA. Yep only the last letter changes A or E.

The CTEK 250SE also gives you a solar input.

The IG aux battery is not lithium, but if you get the 120S and the 250SE you can install a Lithium battery later and not have to buy new chargers (you do need to make some minor wiring changes).

So the best combo, in terms of features and battery chemistry, is the 120S with the 250SE (although the image below shows the 120).View attachment 7810148

Much appreciated. The CTEK website was about useless.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Subject to seeing the wiring schematic, and there, being no blocking diodes in the wiring, I’d keep it simple, make up a duetch plug Anderson adaptor, run an external regulator between the panels and roof plug and make sure all amps from the solar regulator are <25.

 

[Logsplitter]

Subject to seeing the wiring schematic, and there, being no blocking diodes in the wiring, I’d keep it simple, make up a duetch plug Anderson adaptor, run an external regulator between the panels and roof plug and make sure all amps from the solar regulator are <25.

I’m hoping to run my portable suitcase style panels by plugging directly into the duetch plugs once I’ve received the vehicle and checked it all out.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Much appreciated. The CTEK website was about useless.

A few weeks ago I managed to decipher the differences, after making a few mistakes.

 

[TheDocAUS]

For anyone interested in making a bracket for the CTEK 120S and 250SE, here is a diagram of where to drill the mounting holes for each unit, when they are joined together (page 7 CTEK 120S manual).

You then need to work out where to drill the holes to attach the bracket to the IG. I would try and line up the two top holes with the existing bracket in the IG for the CTEK 120S - see the white arrows on the image below.

 

[etbandit]

This YouTube Vid nicely explains what the 250 and smartpass can do collectively.

View: https://youtu.be/TjqcOAjT4W4


Apparently, combining the 250 and smartpass boosts charging from 20A (of the 250) + 120A (of the smartpass) = 140A.

Question - What happens though, if your lithium battery can only handle 100A of continuous charging? Does the 250+smartpass unit automatically reduce the charge rate to what the battery can handle (ie 100A)?

 

[MrMike]

Just FYI the INEOS Australia rep was strongly against Lithium batteries in the IG. He did all the ADR work for INEOS and said they did not test Lithium.

Personally I would only use a high end Lithium battery like the Invicta, not one of the cheap brands. Plus, I would only use LiFePO4, not any Lithium chemistry. For me A grade LiFePO4 cells with a great Battery Management System.

I built my own 100 amp Lifepo4 with new calb cells and a decent BMS, had it now 4 years.

 

[etbandit]

For in-car charging, why would one choose to use the 250SE over the Smartpass120S?

Apart from the additional solar input in the 250SE, the 250SE can only charge at up to 20A, whereas the 120S can charge at 120A. Is solar the only reason, as the 120S has 5-fold the charging rate.

When combined the 250SE + 120S can charge at upto 140A with 20A solar input. Why then would someone use say the RedArc 1250D which can only charge at 50A. Is the ability to charge at 50A via solar in the RedArc the main reason?

All these options are doing my head in!