Charging camper with Grenadier

[NomadJS]

I just recently picked up my Trialmaster; I am somewhat of a newbie when it comes to electrical and was hoping to get some good pointers. The Ctek system is all new to me and frankly a little hard to understand. I am trying to figure out the easiest way to charge my camper batteries while on the road. I currently have a Conquerer UEV 490 (50amp hookups), the camper itself has 3 exterior Anderson plugs, 2 of which can all be used to charge batteries through Solar, the other is attached to the 7 pin plug that can be hooked up to the truck while on the road. I was wondering what would be the easiest and most efficient way to get charging power back to the Anderson plug to charge the camper. Thanks in advance for any pointers, looking to start this project in the next week or so.

 

[anand]

So you have an Anderson plug that connects to the 7 pin trailer connector?

That will pull power through the 12v+ wire in the 7 pin, albeit a fairly low amperage.

What is on the other end of the anderson connector? I'd imagine a DC-DC charger? If so, what are the specs of that charger (to know what the max amperage it can draw is)

 

[TheDocAUS]

Post a picture of the plugs attaching to your car, to avoid confusion, as the US, Europe and Australia use different setups.

In Australia there is often a trailer plug and a 50 amp Anderson plug attaching to the caravan.

COMMON AUSTRALIAN SETUP
On my car I had XHQ replace the 13 pin Euro plug with a flat pin trailer plug and two Anderson plugs. The Grey Anderson comes from the starter battery and charges any trailer/caravan. It looks like his:

Control unit here (XHQ install their own wiring loom)

 

[NomadJS]

So you have an Anderson plug that connects to the 7 pin trailer connector?

That will pull power through the 12v+ wire in the 7 pin, albeit a fairly low amperage.
What is on the other end of the anderson connector? I'd imagine a DC-DC charger? If so, what are the specs of that charger (to know what the max amperage it can draw is)

This is where it gets confusing, it appears that the Conquerer does not have a Dc/Dc charger- goes off shore power 50 amp, or solar. Because of the lack of dc/dc charger I have been told that I cant charge the batteries in the camper with tow vehicle, but am unable to verify. The camper has been great, but the customer service in the states is horrible.

I was thinking if I was thinking about installing a DC/DC charger connection from my tow vehicle with an AC50 connection. ---but not sure if that would work either. To be honest the electronics on the Camper are not the best, they work but could be much better. I have been thinking over the winter try to tackle the RedArc Manager 30 system and update everything.

 

[NomadJS]

Post a picture of the plugs attaching to your car, to avoid confusion, as the US, Europe and Australia use different setups.

In Australia there is often a trailer plug and a 50 amp Anderson plug attaching to the caravan.

COMMON AUSTRALIAN SETUP
On my car I had XHQ replace the 13 pin Euro plug with a flat pin trailer plug and two Anderson plugs. The Grey Anderson comes from the starter battery and charges any trailer/caravan. It looks like his:

Control unit here (XHQ install their own wiring loom)

 

[TheDocAUS]

This is where it gets confusing, it appears that the Conquerer does not have a Dc/Dc charger- goes off shore power 50 amp, or solar. Because of the lack of dc/dc charger I have been told that I cant charge the batteries in the camper with tow vehicle, but am unable to verify. The camper has been great, but the customer service in the states is horrible.

I was thinking if I was thinking about installing a DC/DC charger connection from my tow vehicle with an AC50 connection. ---but not sure if that would work either. To be honest the electronics on the Camper are not the best, they work but could be much better. I have been thinking over the winter try to tackle the RedArc Manager 30 system and update everything.

Also post a picture of the charging units in the van.

 

[TheDocAUS]

The plug with the red cap, looks like a 50 amp Anderson plug. So what charging unit does that wiring attach too inside the van?

I assume the other one is plug used for trailer/caravans lights, brakes (maybe even some power) etc in the US.

 

[NomadJS]

Post a picture of the plugs attaching to your car, to avoid confusion, as the US, Europe and Australia use different setups.

In Australia there is often a trailer plug and a 50 amp Anderson plug attaching to the caravan.

COMMON AUSTRALIAN SETUP
On my car I had XHQ replace the 13 pin Euro plug with a flat pin trailer plug and two Anderson plugs. The Grey Anderson comes from the starter battery and charges any trailer/caravan. It looks like his:

Control unit here (XHQ install their own wiring loom)

This looks straight forward, coming off the starting battery, running anderson plug to back, in theory it should charge a bit?

 

[NomadJS]

The plug with the red cap, looks like a 50 amp Anderson plug. So what charging unit does that wiring attach too inside the van?

I assume the other one is plug used for trailer/caravans lights, brakes (maybe even some power) etc in the US.

The anderson plug has only been used to hook up Solar panels. It has never been hooked up to my previos truck.

 

[anand]

I'm assuming you have LiFePO4 batteries in the camper?

Since the Anderson (I'm assuming it is a SB50) is separate, it should be (somewhat) easy to find where it goes. Either way, you could connect it to a DC-DC charger, like the Victron Orion XS.

On the vehicle side, this can be connected in a few different ways.

If you have the high amp switch panel option, you have the NATO plug. The NATO plug automatically turns off (well the relay opens) at 50kph (or mph??), but this function can be bypassed by accessing the relay in the passenger rear of the cargo area. Option B is to leave the NATO plug untouched, and pass a second wire from the trailer-plug area to the relay in the back, but go to the battery side of the relay and add a SB50 connector.

If you don't have the high amp switch panel option, I'd recommend running a power/ground into the vehicle via the grommets on the rear wheel wells (available on either side), and to the bus bar under the rear seat. Add an appropriate fuse (60A is fine if using the Orion XS) and Anderson plug. The DC-DC charger should be able to detect if the vehicle is running, and only draw power when it is running.

Additionally, if doing a 50A DC-DC, I'd probably go with the SB175 connector just to be safe

 

[TheDocAUS]

This looks straight forward, coming off the starting battery, running anderson plug to back, in theory it should charge a bit?

In theory yes, but to get the best result there needs to be a DCtoDC charger in the van. The DCtoDC also isolates the caravan's batteries from the car when voltage drops, to protect the car's starter battery.

Can you tell me the rating on that grey Anderson plug? It maybe a 125 amp version or a 50 amp, just having some trouble getting a feel of the size. Rating should be imprinted on the plug. EDIT: 50 amp confirmed.

 

[NomadJS]

In theory yes, but to get the best result there needs to be a DCtoDC charger in the van. The DCtoDC also isolates the caravan's batteries from the car when voltage drops, to protect the car's starter battery.

Can you tell me the rating on that grey Anderson plug? It maybe a 125 amp version or a 50 amp, just having some trouble getting a feel of the size. Rating should be imprinted on the plug.

50 amp on the anderson plug

 

[MrMike]

I just recently picked up my Trialmaster; I am somewhat of a newbie when it comes to electrical and was hoping to get some good pointers. The Ctek system is all new to me and frankly a little hard to understand. I am trying to figure out the easiest way to charge my camper batteries while on the road. I currently have a Conquerer UEV 490 (50amp hookups), the camper itself has 3 exterior Anderson plugs, 2 of which can all be used to charge batteries through Solar, the other is attached to the 7 pin plug that can be hooked up to the truck while on the road. I was wondering what would be the easiest and most efficient way to get charging power back to the Anderson plug to charge the camper. Thanks in advance for any pointers, looking to start this project in the next week or so.

View attachment 7865875View attachment 7865876

I just recently picked up my Trialmaster; I am somewhat of a newbie when it comes to electrical and was hoping to get some good pointers. The Ctek system is all new to me and frankly a little hard to understand. I am trying to figure out the easiest way to charge my camper batteries while on the road. I currently have a Conquerer UEV 490 (50amp hookups), the camper itself has 3 exterior Anderson plugs, 2 of which can all be used to charge batteries through Solar, the other is attached to the 7 pin plug that can be hooked up to the truck while on the road. I was wondering what would be the easiest and most efficient way to get charging power back to the Anderson plug to charge the camper. Thanks in advance for any pointers, looking to start this project in the next week or so.

View attachment 7865875View attachment 7865876

We tow a Conqueror and use an Anderson style connector from the start battery via a Redarc SB12 voltage sensitive relay. Just make sure your wiring is up to spec

 

[NomadJS]

I'm assuming you have LiFePO4 batteries in the camper?

Since the Anderson (I'm assuming it is a SB50) is separate, it should be (somewhat) easy to find where it goes. Either way, you could connect it to a DC-DC charger, like the Victron Orion XS.

On the vehicle side, this can be connected in a few different ways.

If you have the high amp switch panel option, you have the NATO plug. The NATO plug automatically turns off (well the relay opens) at 50kph (or mph??), but this function can be bypassed by accessing the relay in the passenger rear of the cargo area. Option B is to leave the NATO plug untouched, and pass a second wire from the trailer-plug area to the relay in the back, but go to the battery side of the relay and add a SB50 connector.

If you don't have the high amp switch panel option, I'd recommend running a power/ground into the vehicle via the grommets on the rear wheel wells (available on either side), and to the bus bar under the rear seat. Add an appropriate fuse (60A is fine if using the Orion XS) and Anderson plug. The DC-DC charger should be able to detect if the vehicle is running, and only draw power when it is running.

Additionally, if doing a 50A DC-DC, I'd probably go with the SB175 connector just to be safe

Actually they came with 2 AGM 100amp Batteries. I just recently purchased some LifePo4 batteries for the camper, but don't plan on installing until this winter when I have more time. The anderson plug follows the line going directly to the Solar Renogy system installed.

I do have the High Amp panel. I will never use the Nato plug for a rear winch (I guess I should never say never) I was thinking if that could be used or not. I am not real comfortable with these electronics...much different than wiring a house. LOL I do like the NATO idea.

 

[NomadJS]

We tow a Conqueror and use an Anderson style connector from the start battery via a Redarc SB12 voltage sensitive relay. Just make sure your wiring is up to spec

Thanks you, did you change out the electronic management system or did you keep what was from the factory. thanks for your help

 

[NomadJS]

Thank you everyone for the ideas, I am going to do a little more investigating in the camper and hopefully get something working in the next week or so. Thank you Guys!

 

[MrMike]

Thanks you, did you change out the electronic management system or did you keep what was from the factory. thanks for your help

I don't have the dual battery system from the factory for the Grenadier as I don't like the system, personally I'd go Redarc BCDC1225D or BCDC1250D depending on usage. If you have the factory system take the feed from the aux battery

 

[Rok_Dr]

Actually they came with 2 AGM 100amp Batteries. I just recently purchased some LifePo4 batteries for the camper, but don't plan on installing until this winter when I have more time. The anderson plug follows the line going directly to the Solar Renogy system installed.

I do have the High Amp panel. I will never use the Nato plug for a rear winch (I guess I should never say never) I was thinking if that could be used or not. I am not real comfortable with these electronics...much different than wiring a house. LOL I do like the NATO idea.

What model of Renogy controller do you have fitted? Depending on the model it may be both a DC-DC charger and solar regulator. In Australia Conqueror currently fit a Redarc BMS-30 to the UEV-490 which has both solar and DC_DC charging functionality.

PS depending on the age of the Renogy controller you have have to upgrade it to charge your new Lithium batteries if it doesn't have a lithium charging profile.

Cheers
Steve

 

[NomadJS]

What model of Renogy controller do you have fitted? Depending on the model it may be both a DC-DC charger and solar regulator. In Australia Conqueror currently fit a Redarc BMS-30 to the UEV-490 which has both solar and DC_DC charging functionality.

PS depending on the age of the Renogy controller you have have to upgrade it to charge your new Lithium batteries if it doesn't have a lithium charging profile.

Cheers
Steve

I will check in the morning. If only we were so lucky over here in the states to have the Redarc BMS-30, that is what I am looking at for the winter project. Thanks for the info.

 

[MrMike]

I will check in the morning. If only we were so lucky over here in the states to have the Redarc BMS-30, that is what I am looking at for the winter project. Thanks for the info.

Conqueror have a poor reputation for wiring/electrical systems in the campers, I've taken or modified 80% of mine. Check the wiring on the batteries as the way they have them wired up the bulk of the current comes from the closest battery to the control panel, to rectify this you have to upgrade the negative cable between the 2. Some owners have been replacing theirAGM batteries often due to this issue, in some case they have had them drop cells. Not the case so much with Lifepo4 but if you're running high powered appliances you may have difficulty getting sufficient current.