Trickle Charger hookup location

nuclearmonkey · Apr 25, 2024

@anand That certainly is a bummer… I’m used to a National Luna solenoid in my defender, so I guess I’m going to have to learn / adapt to modern systems. The more I think over this system, the more it seems appropriate to run the fridge and other ancillaries off of the aux battery. I remember a thread where someone was re-wiring the 12 volt outlets and aux switches over to the second battery. This seems like the better solution.

globalgregors · Apr 25, 2024

Clark Kent said:
If you have the aux battery option that should work via the smartpass trickle charge feature. I'm unaware if @nuclearmonkey has that option so I was aiming for a solution that would work for everyone.
I connect my solar panel via an Anderson plug wired directly to a D250S solar input.

Yes, me too now for the solar. Have been looking at AC/shore power though so we can use the vehicle for comms (Starlink) while parked but have held off so far as I couldn’t find a suitable 240V/110V charger in Oz. Thinking I’ll run it to the auxiliary/store it beneath the rear seat.

anand · Apr 25, 2024

nuclearmonkey said:
@anand That certainly is a bummer… I’m used to a National Luna solenoid in my defender, so I guess I’m going to have to learn / adapt to modern systems. The more I think over this system, the more it seems appropriate to run the fridge and other ancillaries off of the aux battery. I remember a thread where someone was re-wiring the 12 volt outlets and aux switches over to the second battery. This seems like the better solution.

Again, without derailing too far, there's nothing keeping anyone from taking out the CTEK isolator and replacing it with something of their choice to make the system work the way they would like it to

[ Adam ] · Apr 25, 2024

Logsplitter said:
My smart charger is permanently installed. I just need to plug the mains power lead into the socket installed at the rear bumper
Note the picture was taken before the consumer output on the smartpass was blanked off. View attachment 7854544 View attachment 7854545

Why would you do this when there is a nato plug?

nuclearmonkey · Apr 25, 2024

[ Adam ] said:
Why would you do this when there is a nato plug?

My understanding is that the NATO plug is off when the engine is off. Also, you’d still need a charger to step from shore power to 12v.

I think the main idea is that the charger is inside the vehicle so that it can’t be stolen / simpler plug and charge setup when on the road next to shore power.

bakepl · Apr 26, 2024

globalgregors said:
Yes, me too now for the solar. Have been looking at AC/shore power though so we can use the vehicle for comms (Starlink) while parked but have held off so far as I couldn’t find a suitable 240V/110V charger in Oz. Thinking I’ll run it to the auxiliary/store it beneath the rear seat.

Presently touring with solar input via a roof outlet that i rewired direct to the D250. For shore power have a ctek 10amp charger that I connect to the 13pin trailer plug via it's permanent 12+ and neg pins. Both work well for my purpose.

I also have a fridge running on the Aux battery via victron smart battery protect that i power up using the wiring of an overhead power switch.

What I have noticed is with engine off I need to switch 'on' the main above head panel switch and in doing so this must also power up other unknown features as overnight this will considerably drain the start battery.

On my return from present trip will investigate either switching alternatives for when parked up or replace the ctek set up with something else, perhaps redarc or I see Renogy have a new 50amp dc to dc with IP67 rating that is similar.

globalgregors · Apr 26, 2024

bakepl said:
Presently touring with solar input via a roof outlet that i rewired direct to the D250. For shore power have a ctek 10amp charger that I connect to the 13pin trailer plug via it's permanent 12+ and neg pins. Both work well for my purpose.

I also have a fridge running on the Aux battery via victron smart battery protect that i power up using the wiring of an overhead power switch.

What I have noticed is with engine off I need to switch 'on' the main above head panel switch and in doing so this must also power up other unknown features as overnight this will considerably drain the start battery.

On my return from present trip will investigate either switching alternatives for when parked up or replace the ctek set up with something else, perhaps redarc or I see Renogy have a new 50amp dc to dc with IP67 rating that is similar.

With the ignition off that master switch overhead switch powers up the front console and rear outlets along with accessories on the other overhead switches. Perhaps you know that already?

We drew power to the loadspace also from the vacant pole on the primary busbar (eg the one allocated to the OEM inverter), and for the fridge from the spare circuit allocated to the absent compressor on Ineos’ design.

We have these outside the ‘master’ switching circuit at present, something that I’m in two minds about.

All however are drawing from the primary battery so that the auxiliary is then the ‘protected’ supply… reinforced in our case as mentioned above by solar and/or AC power where available. Not the typical setup but it’s working so far using OEM components plus the D250SE, well and an AC-DC converter when I find a suitable (ie that can be used globally) unit.

Clark Kent · Apr 26, 2024

globalgregors said:
Yes, me too now for the solar. Have been looking at AC/shore power though so we can use the vehicle for comms (Starlink) while parked but have held off so far as I couldn’t find a suitable 240V/110V charger in Oz. Thinking I’ll run it to the auxiliary/store it beneath the rear seat.

I see there are quite a few 12v conversion kits available for Starlink roaming/mobile. I haven't looked into them enough to know the pros and cons. It's down my list of to-do's. Telco Antennas and Cowfish both offer 12v solutions.

globalgregors · Apr 26, 2024

Clark Kent said:
I see there are quite a few 12v conversion kits available for Starlink roaming/mobile. I haven't looked into them enough to know the pros and cons. It's down my list of to-do's. Telco Antennas and Cowfish both offer 12v solutions.

Yes, we’ve got a neat all-in-one solution from Star Mount waiting for us in San Diego.
Idea is to run it off the 25A roof outlet.

Star-Mount All In One 12v Flat Mount for Gen 2 Starlink

Introducing the All-New Star-Mount 12v All In One Flat Mount! What’s new with V2? 12v to 48v Step Up now integrated inside the Case! 💪🏻 That’s right! Everything you need to power up and use your existing Starlink in one Low Profile Flat Mount! Only requires 12v power. Wireless Router inclosed...

star-mountsystems.com

Clark Kent · Apr 26, 2024

DenisM said:
Use the lifting eye bolted to the top of the engine as the ground point. On the diesel, it's under the engine cover, RHS about 2/3 of the way towards the rear. Very obvious once you remove the cover.

I stumbled upon this image in a US MY24 work order on the NHTSA website here.
Posting the image to add to @DenisM's instructions above.

Bluesurf · Oct 20, 2024

I found the correct battery maintainer hook up under the hood. It sits unnoticed right next to the Positive. I set up my CETAK 7002, all good

.

angstorms · Oct 21, 2024

Clark Kent said:
I stumbled upon this image in a US MY24 work order on the NHTSA website here.
Posting the image to add to @DenisM's instructions above.

View attachment 7854674

These are the correct post for the trickle charger,

Note you can exit the charging cable out the back left edge and still shut the hood, I leave the charger on fender.
View attachment IMG_0558.jpeg

Eric · Oct 21, 2024

angstorms said:
These are the correct post for the trickle charger,

Note you can exit the charging cable out the back left edge and still shut the hood, I leave the charger on fender.
View attachment 7874278

I just drop it through the engine bay to the floor instead of off via the bonnet

Bluesurf · Oct 21, 2024

angstorms said:
These are the correct post for the trickle charger,

Note you can exit the charging cable out the back left edge and still shut the hood, I leave the charger on fender.
View attachment 7874278

That's really good, I have CTEK's are with CTEK Hangers on the walls in my Garage, I have the extended CTEK cables 2, 8' add-on's, I have plenty of feet on the floor.
While adding the CTEK, I also added another EMP Shield Device. This box will protect all electrical devices in and on my car. I have the bigger units, they are better massive build. the smaller units are much cheaper to manufacture and are very new. I fitted it on the drivers side fender. It was zip-tied to a bracket. I have them on my house main electrical panel, one on the transfer station, and one on my Cummins Generator, as well as three cars. This equipment is used and promoted by the US D.O.Defense and every Federal Agency.

EMP & Lightning Protection

The Worlds First Military Compliant Whole Home and Vehicle EMP Protection Device. EMP Defense for Solar Systems, Generators, Houses, Cars, Ham Radio and More

www.empshield.com

ColoradoMike · Oct 21, 2024

angstorms said:
These are the correct post for the trickle charger,

Note you can exit the charging cable out the back left edge and still shut the hood, I leave the charger on fender.
View attachment 7874278

I run the NOCO charger on two of our vehicles 24/7 while not in use. Here are some shots on what I did on our 996TT....excuse the dirt/pollen. Has not been washed since the last track day and for the past month we are re-doing the garage...LOL

If you look at the first pic, I put the battery connectors from the NOCO directly to the battery. I would not probably do this in the Grenny as I would rather go under the hood for a myriad of reasons.

In the second pic I have the quick connect so I never have to worry about the typical battery "clips" and I never have to pull the battery cover.

Third pic is how it routes thru the hood area. You can see the "clips" on the ladder that are NOT connected at all just have them laying there until we move the ladder to a different positon.

The reason I like the short run from the battery to the "quick disconnect" is that I can simply lift the hood and not worry with the jumper cable like clips.

We do NOT need to do this to OUR grenadier as it gets driven ALL the time.

A creative person could figure out a way to fasten the cables to the quick disconnect under the hood and not use the jumper cable "clips".

Logsplitter · Oct 21, 2024

I’ve posted this on another thread before but my trickle charger is permanently mounted. I just plug my mains hook up lead in which supplies my charger and my fridge. The fridge is dual 12v /230v so when at a powered campsite it’s powered by mains.

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