Am wondering where the best way to attach a trickle charger to the Grenadier ? Either under the hood/bonnet or to the batteries in the rear seat ?
Which ground point are people using when hooking up under the bonnet?Short Answer: Don't charge directly onto the battery posts. The positive jumper post and the corresponding engine ground (negative) under the hood (bonnet) are accessible and convenient. There are other options.
Long Answer: Read @Xrford's informative post here. I also recommend watching the YouTube he provided a link to. Our vehicles are equipped with a Battery Monitoring System (BMS) so battery charging should occur on the vehicle side of the BMS, i.e. -after- the BMS, not directly to the battery posts. This is so the BMS is aware of the charge current.
In the YouTube video the tech has a diagnostic laptop plugged into the vehicle and demonstrates the effects of charging before and after the BMS.
Use the lifting eye bolted to the top of the engine as the ground point. On the diesel, it's under the engine cover, RHS about 2/3 of the way towards the rear. Very obvious once you remove the cover.Which ground point are people using when hooking up under the bonnet?
I’m considering permanently mounting a charger under the rear seat and then having an adapter so an extension cord can be plugged into the car from an outside socket. Where would you recommend attaching the charger to in this case? Thanks in advance!Short Answer: Don't charge directly onto the battery posts. The positive jumper post and the corresponding engine ground (negative) under the hood (bonnet) are accessible and convenient. There are other options.
Long Answer: Read @Xrford's informative post here. I also recommend watching the YouTube he provided a link to. Our vehicles are equipped with a Battery Monitoring System (BMS) so battery charging should occur on the vehicle side of the BMS, i.e. -after- the BMS, not directly to the battery posts. This is so the BMS is aware of the charge current.
In the YouTube video the tech has a diagnostic laptop plugged into the vehicle and demonstrates the effects of charging before and after the BMS.
The positive could go to the positive on the battery, or to the bus bar (if you have a fusable spot open). If the ground it attached to a chassis ground (for instance, where the battery is grounded to the chassis near the seat mount), the shunt will measure it appropriately. The only way to bypass the shunt is for the negative of the charger to be attached directly to the batteryI’m considering permanently mounting a charger under the rear seat and then having an adapter so an extension cord can be plugged into the car from an outside socket. Where would you recommend attaching the charger to in this case? Thanks in advance!
@anand beat me to it!I’m considering permanently mounting a charger under the rear seat and then having an adapter so an extension cord can be plugged into the car from an outside socket. Where would you recommend attaching the charger to in this case? Thanks in advance!
Hi there. I also have a NOCO charger and had difficulty in getting it to charge. Where did you attach the -ve terminal of the charger? I see the post advising to charge on the engine lifting point (diesel) but can someone please advise how to remove and reinstall the engine cover? Many thanksI put mine under the bonnet.
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Lift up gently around the edges and the cover will pop off. See a YouTube here. Scroll to 3:40 for the engine cover.Hi there. I also have a NOCO charger and had difficulty in getting it to charge. Where did you attach the -ve terminal of the charger? I see the post advising to charge on the engine lifting point (diesel) but can someone please advise how to remove and reinstall the engine cover? Many thanks
Hmm… could you not just attach direct to the terminals on the auxiliary battery? You can then rely on the Smartpass to regulate the connection to the primary without troubling the BMS. I was connecting solar input (via MPPT) in this manner without issue…@anand beat me to it!
That's my suggestion also.
The negative ground strap is the closest point to the battery. Put a ring terminal under the nut.
The positive is on the battery clamp.
Use an insulated ring terminal here.
For safety I would put an inline fuse in the positive cable. Rate the fuse just above your charger maximum output. This is for charging, not welding!!
Use a cable size rated for DC current that matches your charger output.
Ring terminals are susceptible to fracture if the wiring is unsupported so be sure to secure the cables close to the terminals to relieve mechanical stresses from vibration.
If you have the aux battery option that should work via the smartpass trickle charge feature. I'm unaware if @nuclearmonkey has that option so I was aiming for a solution that would work for everyone.Hmm… could you not just attach direct to the terminals on the auxiliary battery? You can then rely on the Smartpass to regulate the connection to the primary without troubling the BMS. I was connecting solar input (via MPPT) in this manner without issue…
Appreciate all of the replies!If you have the aux battery option that should work via the smartpass trickle charge feature. I'm unaware if @nuclearmonkey has that option so I was aiming for a solution that would work for everyone.
I connect my solar panel via an Anderson plug wired directly to a D250S solar input.
So the Smartpass will only link the two batteries directly when the main battery side voltage increases (and then pass up to 120A of charge across to the aux battery). The theory with hooking the charger to the aux battery is that it will keep the aux battery at full charge, and as the main battery depletes the Smartpass will pulse charge from the aux to the main.I’m assuming the smartpass will link the two batteries together when it senses the voltage increase from the charger (as opposed to doing the intermittent pulse charging thing when the engine is off)?