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loose nut of front stabilizer

bakepl

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Krabby

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Clark Kent

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My Jan23 built Aus delivered car has double nuts both with the green check paint. Here's an interesting article for those wishing a short read on double nuts. Applying the correct torque is critical would seem.

https://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm#:~:text=The thin nut should be,to the full torque value.
Those junker test videos are interesting. I would not have thought the sequence of the nuts or the torque on the 2nd nut made such a big difference. Thanks for posting.
 

Jean Mercier

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Those junker test videos are interesting. I would not have thought the sequence of the nuts or the torque on the 2nd nut made such a big difference. Thanks for posting.
I know the trick of the double nuts from my father (without any torque calculations, just feeling it), works indeed, but in 2023 there are cheaper and lesser "weight and material" solutions! This is OK for DIY (Do It Yourself) solutions, not for state of the art automotive companies! (n) :mad:
 

bakepl

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I know the trick of the double nuts from my father (without any torque calculations, just feeling it), works indeed, but in 2023 there are cheaper and lesser "weight and material" solutions! This is OK for DIY (Do It Yourself) solutions, not for state of the art automotive companies! (n) :mad:
Yes, on an upside... we are indeed fortunate that Ineos are to supply the promised workshop manuals so we know what the correct torque to apply to when it becomes necessary or during routine maintenance checking... 😁
 
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Cone lock.jpgConeloc-Flanged-Nut-Steel.jpg

Using flanged cone lock and a standard cone lock nut may be a better choice for this application.
With no access to the Grenadier manuals refer to a standard bolt torque chart for the grade of nut and bolt. Generally in a vehicle the only variance from standard fastener torques are for the specialty bolts for example in an engine or diff that may be one use and stretched into the plastic region. Most other fasteners on vehicles are only torqued to around 60% of the torque required for permanent deformation and are reusable.
 

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I know the trick of the double nuts from my father (without any torque calculations, just feeling it), works indeed, but in 2023 there are cheaper and lesser "weight and material" solutions! This is OK for DIY (Do It Yourself) solutions, not for state of the art automotive companies! (n) :mad:

Agreed @Jean Mercier. Double nut is olde world and I hope Ineos do better on later production runs. For a field campaign it's do-able with minimal time and cost and doesn't add new catalogue parts or tools.

Here's a positive locking example from my industry (Aerospace). Castellated nut with cotter pin (split pin) plus a spring-loaded plunger. The plunger prevents the bolt falling out if the split pin is omitted (a maintenance error) and the nut comes loose.
This example is from a primary flight control connection where there is no backup/redundancy. It has to work and cannot fail. It's designed for a very different risk and consequence situation and has a price tag to match. Not economical for automotive use.
 

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Jean Mercier

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Agreed @Jean Mercier. Double nut is olde world and I hope Ineos do better on later production runs. For a field campaign it's do-able with minimal time and cost and doesn't add new catalogue parts or tools.

Here's a positive locking example from my industry (Aerospace). Castellated nut with cotter pin (split pin) plus a spring-loaded plunger. The plunger prevents the bolt falling out if the split pin is omitted (a maintenance error) and the nut comes loose.
This example is from a primary flight control connection where there is no backup/redundancy. It has to work and cannot fail. It's designed for a very different risk and consequence situation and has a price tag to match. Not economical for automotive use.
Nice solution, first time I see this ! (y)
 

BMW.Leo

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As I have some "noises" since I did some off-road and stone tracks some weeks ago, I regularly try to find out what's wrong.

Yesterday, as my left front wheel was in a "left turn" position, I could easily inspect the wiring and conduits. I also grabbed with my hands several parts and tried to move them, and suddenly I perceived that the stabilizer was loose, the nut became loose, see the picture. Picture was taken after giving a quarter turn to the nut, with my hand! No tools.
View attachment 7828420

I tightened it, and used the paint marks to tighten it a bit more than the original position, see picture:
View attachment 7828422
on our car the stabilizer become additional secure nut during the new software ( 1946) update, this was mentioned by our Ineos Dealer
 

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I went for a test drive for the first time yesterday and made sure to check under the car and noticed there were two nuts for the end links. So maybe IG addressed the backing out nut by just double nutting the ends.
 

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I went for a test drive for the first time yesterday and made sure to check under the car and noticed there were two nuts for the end links. So maybe IG addressed the backing out nut by just double nutting the ends.
That is the case. There is a campaign to fit the early vehicles with double nuts on the stabilizer bar. Certainly on our Grenadier this has done the trick as have done a lot of mileage across serious terrain since and all connectors still tight
 

Tazzieman

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I wonder if anyone has taken the Irish approach and triple nutted?
To be sure, to be sure , to be sure.
 

Jean Mercier

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Double nut or locknut?

Please look at the document here, the Americans are (sometimes ;) ) more advanced than the Europeans:


I did not find this myself, got the information from elsewhere, NOT my dealer of course!

This means I will refuse the double nut solution. This was anyway an amateur solution. Ineos are amateurs in Europe! (n)

Why are they not proposing the right solution in Europe?
 
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